Utah Road Trip – Part 4 of 4: Planet of the Buttes

The final destination of my journey through Utah (and Arizona) was the one which had been on my travel list for the longest time – Lake Powell. I remember watching the original 1968 Planet of the Apes when I was a teenager and being intrigued by the bizarre landscapes. Bright clear turquoise-hued water lapped against golden sun-drenched stone and sand. It was other-worldly, and somehow idyllic and post-apocalyptic at the same time. I immediately did some research into where the film had been shot, and ever since then it sat on my travel list. It did not disappoint.

The temperatures during my road trip had been pretty hot, in the low 30s, but as I turned into Page Arizona, oven-door-heat blasted at me from all directions – and I loved it. Page was my base for three nights as I explored beautiful slot canyons and got to know the lake by foot, boat and from the top of a butte via helicopter.

Antelope Canyon
What are you smiling at?

My first stop on the way into Page was Antelope Canyon. Antelope is a slot canyon, which is a long, narrow, and deep channel with sheer rock walls. This system of drainageways hooks up to Lake Powell at the north where it can be explored by kayak. To the south they can be explored by foot. That’s where I dropped in.

There are several spots along the canyon that can be toured. I avoided the most popular one, preferring to avoid the busloads of tourists taking the same four photos. What I did see was incredible. The colours, erosion-worn texture and light play had me staring mouth-agape in all directions.

Horseshoe Bend
Sharp drop there

I approached Horseshoe Bend with partial reluctance. It’s perhaps the biggest tourist trap in the area, given it’s easily accessed by a short hike off a large parking lot at the side of a highway.

Despite this, it was still worth a visit. The scale was spectacular. The green Colorado River lapped against those Utah red rocks and I was able to get up right to the edge and watch as kayaks and speedboats zoomed by below.

I tried a polarising filter on my camera for the first time on this trip and got most use of it in this section to reduce glare on the water and see more detail within.

Lake Powell

With oven-heat blasting from all directions, I made sure to get down to the lake for a swim. The water was about 25 degrees, which some locals informed me was “too cold for a swim”. Warm enough for me! The water was clean and clear and incredibly blue-green. Small waves washed upon a sandy beach, and I was in the middle of the desert. I found it awesomely surreal.

After my swim I boarded a boat to venture further out onto the lake. Along the way we passed Tower Butte, rising 1600 metres above sea level – and I caught a glimpse of a helicopter hovering above. My afternoon was wide open and I was looking for a way to round out my trip, so on an impulse I purchased a ticket and two hours later I was on a chopper above the lake.

Helicopters are awesome.

I left Page and made my way back to Las Vegas. Due to my early flight I stayed the final night there – which was mostly spent stuffing my face at the Bacchanal all-you-can-eat buffet. The food was amazing, and I really did eat all I could before rolling back to my room.

But Vegas is a total dump, so after eating my body weight in food I took the shortest route back to my room.

Leave a Reply